Prehistoric textiles from Central Europe

The aim of this book is to demonstrate the variety of working processes and techniques. It is a fact that the most important techniques in textile handicraft and art, which we still use in the 21th century, have their roots in prehistoric times. They even reach back to Stone and Bronze Age. During these remote times, human beings developed the most important weaving and sewing techniques, weave and pattern types. The Bronze Age innovations such as weaving twill, dyeing textiles or special pattern systems are surprising. There is a further development of textile techniques towards Iron Age. The qualities of Hallstatt Period textiles are finer and more diverse than in the preceding periods. They are rich in colour as well as in different weave types, patterns and decorations. There are also different styles of band weaves. Usually, decorative techniques used in prehistoric times were introduced during weaving. Therefore, typical designs of the patterns are connected with the warp and weft system of the weave. For example, stripes or checked patterns are woven with warp and/or weft threads of different colours. For curving and circular designs there are different techniques to be used. For Central European prehistory, we know of different brocade techniques with floating thread systems. Inserting or attaching different elements into a weave, such as beads or even metal strips is known. Embroidery, the "small art" beside sewing, was used to create decorative patterns. Tablet weaving is a special weaving technique utilising four-holed tablets, which permits to create complex and figurative designs. This technique reached its first zenith during the Hallstatt Period. This first overview allows us to draw a picture of the development of textile production, starting from household production level in the Stone and Bronze Age and culminating in a more industrial level workshop production in Roman times. It is important to emphasize that, from the Hallstatt Period onwards, we know a highly developed textile art and that there is evidence of a well organised textile production on household level and possibly specialised craft and the first mass production in workshops. The textiles and tools show clearly that there is a continuous development from the beginning of the Iron Age to the Roman era. For the topic "work and identity" the craftsmen the textile producers are in the focus as well as the organisation of the production. We can find their traces in every settlement, where they lived and worked. Spindle whorls, loom weights and needles found in graves may indicate that their owners were textile workers, but also may demonstrate their special status. The function of the woven fabrics in prehistory can be interpreted in various ways and different primary and secondary uses can be distinguished. Textiles were produced with special characteristics for a particular use. The primary use of textiles was as clothing or objects of daily use such as carrying-bags. Secondary use is re-use after wear and tear, i.e. subsequent "recycling". The book concludes with a comprehensive chapter about clothing in prehistory. Different archaeological sources can be consulted: textile objects, rare finds of complete garments, jewellery in graves and iconographic evidence. Greek and Roman written sources sometimes give attention to the "barbaric" tribes in Central Europe so we know the names of some garments used in the Late Iron Age. Although this study cannot give a picture of the clothes of the population from Stone to Iron Age, we have some examples of garments, shoes and hats and how they were worn. The social meaning of clothing, clothing as an important media to communicate identity, is a prominent part of this chapter.

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